Food and the City in Europe since 1800

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  • Edited by Peter J. Atkins, Durham University, UK, Peter Lummel, Freilichtmuseum Domane Dahlem, Germany and Derek J. Oddy, University of Westminster, UK
  • This fascinating volume examines the impact that rapid urbanization has had upon diets and food systems throughout Western Europe over the past two centuries. Bringing together studies from across the continent, it stresses the fundamental links between key changes in European social history and food systems, food cultures and food politics. Contributors respond to a number of important questions, including: when and how did local food production cease to be sufficient for the city and when did improved transport conditions and liberal commercial relations replace local by supra-regional food supplies? How far did the food industry contribute to improved living conditions in cities? What influence did urban consumers have? Food and the City in Europe since 1800 also examines issues of food hygiene and health impacts in cities, looks at various food innovations and how ‘new’ foods often first gained acceptance in cities, and explores how eating fashions have changed over the centuries.
  • Contents: Preface; Food and the city, Peter J. Atkins and Derek J. Oddy. Part A Feeding the Multitude: Urbanization and nutrition: historical research reconsidered, Hans Jürgen Teuteberg; 'A tale of 2 cities': a comparison of food supply in London and Paris in the 1850s, Peter J. Atkins; Urbanization and dietary change in Mediterranean Europe: Barcelona, 1870–1935, Roser Nicolau-Nos and Josep Pujol-Andreu; Food science/food politics: Max Rubner and 'rational nutrition' in fin-de-siècle Berlin, Corinna Treitel; How to feed 3 million inhabitants: Berlin in the first years after the Second World war, 1945–1948, Jürgen Schmidt. Part B Food Regulation: Food fraud and the big city: Brussels' responses to food anxieties in the 19th century, Peter Scholliers; Food quality in London and the rise of the public analyst, 1870–1939, Derek J. Oddy; Municipal laboratories and the analysis of foodstuffs in France under the Third Republic: a case study of the Paris municipal laboratory, 1878–1907, Alessandro Stanziani; The 'war against food adulteration': municipal food monitoring and citizen self-help associations in Germany, 1870s–1880s, Vera Hierholzer. Part C Food Innovations – the Product Perspective: The discovery of vitamins and its impact on the food industry: the issue of tinned sweetened condensed skim milk 1890–1940, Adel P. den Hartog; First-class restaurants and luxury food stores: the emergence of the Soviet culture of consumption in the 1930s, Jukka Gronow; A shop window of the regime: the position of Prague as the capital in the preferential supply system of selected Czechoslovakian cities, 1950–1970, Martin Franc; Born-in-the-city: the supermarket in Germany, Peter Lummel; The changing position of exotic foods in post-war Amsterdam, Anneke H. van Otterloo; The immigrant impact upon London's food since c.1850, Panikos Panayi. Part D Eating Fashions - the Consumer Perspective: Scientists at the table: the cultural significance of scientists' festive meals in Berlin, 1830–1940, Ulrike Thoms; Reforming diet at the end of the 19th century in Europe, Alain Drouard; Turtle soup and water porridge: some social and cultural perspectives on food habits in the city of Oslo, 1860–2000, Virginie Amilien; Food markets in the city of Bordeaux – from the 1960s until today: historical evolution and anthropological aspects, IsabelleTéchoueyres; Conclusion, Peter J. Atkins and Derek J. Oddy; Index.
  • About the Editor: Dr Peter J. Atkins is Reader in the Department of Geography, Durham University, UK. Dr Peter Lummel is Scientific Director of the Freilichtmuseum Domäne Dahlem, Berlin, Germany. Professor Derek J. Oddy is Professor Emeritus at the University of Westminster, UK.
  • Reviews: 'Food history and urban studies are the hottest topics in Europe today: this book combines both. Big cities – London, Paris, Berlin, Brussels, Barcelona, Amsterdam, Prague and other urban magnets in the last two centuries – are huge, hungry bellies. Volume, modernity, risks. Fusion, fraud, flavour and fashion. It is all on the menu of this rich, diverse and well-balanced book.'
    Marc Jacobs, Catholic University of Brussels, Belgium

    'Food and the City reinforces the idea present in recent studies of eating habits that food should no longer just be seen as offering insights into consumption patterns and that food is rich with social and cultural meanings.'
    Social History of Medicine

    'This collection provides not only some extremely interesting studies of the difficulties in feeding cities well, but a fascinating glimpse of the roots of problems with which we still grapple.'
    Agricultural History Review